San Juan del Sur is a small beach town on the Pacific Ocean that is either the best place or worst place in Nicaragua depending on your perspective. Ok, the capital city Managua is definitely the worst place, but you know what I mean. Some people love the overpriced cheesy tourist places and the plethora of English speakers with good ideas about how to comfortably spend dollars while others describe it as artificial, ruined, etc. “Like Costa Rica” which is a terrible insult here.
I had originally planned to go, then decided to skip it after talking to some turistas and locals here, but then I met (I kid you not) six more Swedes after getting back from Volcan Maderas who raved about it. Awesome surfing, parties on the beach, resorts with cheap Nica Libres and three infinity pools (they kept repeating this point, “three infinity pools!”, then explaining again what infiinity pools are. Should have been a clue).
Good arguments were made by the Swedes, particularly David who passed along great wisdom by saying ¨You know, there are two sides to every story. Hiccup. You know, there are two sides to every story. There are always two sides to every story.” Needless to say I was convinced.
Since arriving in Nicaragua I had heard that the two most dangerous types of people were cab drivers and the police. The police are always stopping you for bribes for some weird infraction that they have clearly just invented. They are nice about it though. They just aren´t paid very well. The cab drivers are apparently quite evil. Every single one, whether “official” or not, is apparently hell bent on getting you to trust him and get in the cab so he can drive you out to the middle of nowhere, strip you naked, and leave you to find your way back.
I ask my hotel to arrange a cab to take me from the Ometepe ferry dropoff to San Juan del Sur. $30 they say. I am wearing a shirt that says “45” on the front so they say a cabbie will be looking for “cuarenta cinco.” Sure enough, no cabbie hailing 45. Big dude walks up to me.
Cab to San Juan del Sur?
Si, cuanto cuesta?
$15
Vamanos.
I get in the cab. By no means official. The guy is really friendly. Maybe too friendly… He asks if we can pick someone else up. This is pretty common so I say sure, but in a miscommunication he is led to believe we can only pick up a single additional person (there´s always room for 4 plus luggage even in tiny Nica cabs). We pick up this guy. They don´t really say much to each other, just “San Juan del Sur” and a nod. Seems a little suspicious. A knowing nod.
As we drive the driver starts explaining something to me. His Spanish is really fast and accented. He is not slowing down because I am stupidly nodding my head pretending that I understand when really I am trying to look into his eyes in the mirror to see if he is lying. Something about being a bus driver. He also drive a bus. He went to school for it and is the only one allowed to drive it. But anyone can drive a taxi. He likes to drive the bus at two o´clock.
We start heading out of town onto a highway and he pulls off the road. Uh oh. He gets out of the car and comes around to my window to assure me that this new random dude from the side of the road is a really good driver, too. What the hell? Dammit I am definitely getting robbed. This is some kind of switcheroo so when I try to explain what happened to the police they have an alibi, or something. God knows. I am so hungover. Hard to think. Oh well let´s just see what happens.
Turns out the new guy is very friendly and much easier to understand. The other dude had to go drive the two o´clock bus to San Juan del Sur. No idea why he was then picking people up from the ferry at one thirty in a taxi.
San Juan del Sur has a very touristy feel to it. Jaded locals, lots of gringos and chules walking around with hats, sunglasses, flip flops, board shorts and pale skin. Overpriced coffee shops and cheeseburgers. However, the bay is beautiful. It´s set between two cliff faces that are largely undeveloped. Beautiful sunsets. I am able to get some surprisingly good gnocchi in town. I like the town ok. The real reason you come here is the surf at the nearby beaches.
Read Full Post »